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SearchQuick question. I have a 392 running a 75 shot I had a custom cmr tune done but was told I cant have one tune for both nitrous and NA. So i have to flash everytime I want to spray. After doing sone reading Im seeing guys running one tune for both NA and spray. I know im going to be leaving some NA power on the table by running 1 tune but how much we talking 20,30,50hp?
Also I have a window switch that activates at 3400 and shuts off at 5800. I want to jump to 100 shot a pull 4* of timing I understand you can do this on the trinity but where is this located?
Board index ‹ Trinity Technical Discussion ‹ Trinity Dodge Gas ‹ 392 Nitrous Timing pull
Tue Feb 03, 2015 11:06 am
Tue Feb 03, 2015 3:41 pm
Mon Sep 28, 2015 4:49 pm
392 Nitrous Timing pull
Moderators: mikel, Vas@Diablosport, JonDiablosport
4 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Tue Feb 03, 2015 11:06 am
the only way to know what kind of power loss you will see from running the N20 tune all the time is to get it on a dyno or to the track.
Some combos are more timing sensitive and may lose 20-30 rwhp, others dont care as much and may lose less than 10....
Some combos are more timing sensitive and may lose 20-30 rwhp, others dont care as much and may lose less than 10....
Tue Feb 03, 2015 3:41 pm
Perfect thats what I was thinking as well. Now how do I go about pulling the timing? Should I pull timing from the stock tune or from your 93 tune? I hear you folks added some timing to the 93 tune so I would theroetically have to pull more with your 93 tune correct?
Mon Sep 28, 2015 4:49 pm
Hello out there!
I was surfing the forums trying to get info on any nitrous tunes that may be downloadable out there somewhere and thought I would share some information that could help.
I have a 2014 Challenger SRT8 running a conservative 100hp shot WET system (for now). The general rule of thumb my research tells me is to pull 2 degrees for every 100 hp that is shot (although I have seen total numbers approaching 6 degrees in some reports). Then I learned of a potential risk that the modern Hemi has regarding anything that will raise cylinder temp or pressure like Nitrous or supercharging can do since they both basically achieve the same affect in the cylinder.
First, the weakness;
(Please take note that this information is gathered from forums and documents downloaded from the net and I do not take any responsibility as far as truth or accuracy goes).
The very top piston ring grooves are cut very close to the top of the piston in these engines that potentially can cause a weak spot in that area because the thickness of the top of the piston is thinner than normal compared to other pistons because of the proximity of the ring groove to the top of the piston. All my research indicates that EXTREME care needs to be taken when shooting Nitrous because the increased heat and pressure can cause piston failure. We TRADITIONALLY manage the pressure by timing adjustment and colder spark plugs. I can safely say that most Nitrous guys would agree to this. I have even been told that even a 100hp shot can even be pushing it in certain environments.
Then I found out about Methanol injection. This method of heat/pressure control is very effective in reducing the risks by quenching temperatures in the cylinder and eliminating the risk of detonation by boosting the octane rating of the fuel way over 110 if the correct nozzle is used.
So, a long story short...I am spraying 100hp with NO timing adjustments and absolutely no signs of detonation. That being said...there is still a risk of the Methanol injection system failing (rather it be empty reservoir or a drop in delivery pressure) which would cause detonation way too fast to react to.
So along with a high quality reliable RPM window/WOT switch, I installed two more levels of engine safety. I installed a fuel rail pressure sensor (fully adjustable), and a Methanol flow sensor. So even if the correct RPM range and wide open throttle position are in spec, the fuel rail pressure could still potentially drop too far at the sudden loss of pressure as the fuel solenoid opens which would result in leaning the system out or the Methanol delivery could drop too far causing really quick damage. So now, if the fuel rail or Methanol pressure does drop to a critical level, these switches kill the Nitrous very quickly, thus greatly reducing the risk of damage. Am I claiming the risk is completely gone? No I am not, but it sure does ease the mind. I have been running this for over a month now and the engine has not even come close to damage. That is including the timing remaining where it started before a nitrous tune!
Hope this info is useful to someone!
~Bob~
I was surfing the forums trying to get info on any nitrous tunes that may be downloadable out there somewhere and thought I would share some information that could help.
I have a 2014 Challenger SRT8 running a conservative 100hp shot WET system (for now). The general rule of thumb my research tells me is to pull 2 degrees for every 100 hp that is shot (although I have seen total numbers approaching 6 degrees in some reports). Then I learned of a potential risk that the modern Hemi has regarding anything that will raise cylinder temp or pressure like Nitrous or supercharging can do since they both basically achieve the same affect in the cylinder.
First, the weakness;
(Please take note that this information is gathered from forums and documents downloaded from the net and I do not take any responsibility as far as truth or accuracy goes).
The very top piston ring grooves are cut very close to the top of the piston in these engines that potentially can cause a weak spot in that area because the thickness of the top of the piston is thinner than normal compared to other pistons because of the proximity of the ring groove to the top of the piston. All my research indicates that EXTREME care needs to be taken when shooting Nitrous because the increased heat and pressure can cause piston failure. We TRADITIONALLY manage the pressure by timing adjustment and colder spark plugs. I can safely say that most Nitrous guys would agree to this. I have even been told that even a 100hp shot can even be pushing it in certain environments.
Then I found out about Methanol injection. This method of heat/pressure control is very effective in reducing the risks by quenching temperatures in the cylinder and eliminating the risk of detonation by boosting the octane rating of the fuel way over 110 if the correct nozzle is used.
So, a long story short...I am spraying 100hp with NO timing adjustments and absolutely no signs of detonation. That being said...there is still a risk of the Methanol injection system failing (rather it be empty reservoir or a drop in delivery pressure) which would cause detonation way too fast to react to.
So along with a high quality reliable RPM window/WOT switch, I installed two more levels of engine safety. I installed a fuel rail pressure sensor (fully adjustable), and a Methanol flow sensor. So even if the correct RPM range and wide open throttle position are in spec, the fuel rail pressure could still potentially drop too far at the sudden loss of pressure as the fuel solenoid opens which would result in leaning the system out or the Methanol delivery could drop too far causing really quick damage. So now, if the fuel rail or Methanol pressure does drop to a critical level, these switches kill the Nitrous very quickly, thus greatly reducing the risk of damage. Am I claiming the risk is completely gone? No I am not, but it sure does ease the mind. I have been running this for over a month now and the engine has not even come close to damage. That is including the timing remaining where it started before a nitrous tune!
Hope this info is useful to someone!
~Bob~
4 posts
• Page 1 of 1